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Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Dog Training Schools

What To Look For In A Dog Training School

Enrolling in a dog obedience class can be a rewarding experience for both you and your dog, but choosing the wrong class can make the experience unpleasant for both of you. If you are lucky enough to live in an area where you have a selection, shop around. Observe the class prior to taking your dog.

Below are 4 key points to look for in a basics dog training obedience class:
Individual Attention:
Is the size of the class such that the instructor is able to give individual attention when needed?
Pleasant Atmosphere:
Is there a relaxed friendly atmosphere in the class? Tension and disorder will affect both your ability to learn as well as your dog's.
Training Concept:
Is the approach to training used in the class consistent with your own feelings about dog training? Does the instructor want you to do something to your dog that you are unwilling or reluctant to do?
Instructor Expertise and Ability to Teach:
Does the instructor seem knowledgeable about dog training? And beyond that, is the instructor able to communicate his or her knowledge effectively?
Remember it is important for you and your dog to feel at ease.
Training your dog should start from day one when you bring him home.
Choosing the right words will help your dog learn quickly.
Basics Dog Training

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Hand And Voice Commands

Commonly Used Hand Signals In Basics Dog Obedience Training

The following is a list of 6 hand signals that are commonly used in dog obedience training.
1. “Come”: A movement across the body from the side toward the opposite shoulder.
2. “Down”: Can be done in two ways. The first way is with the arm raised to shoulder height in a striking motion if the owner is facing the dog. The second way to carry out the “Down” signal is to with the left arm down with elbow straight, wrist bent, and palm and fingers parallel to the floor if the dog is at heel position.
3. “Heel”: A forward motion of the left hand parallel to the floor to make the dog start walking at heel. It is also a swinging motion of the left hand from in front of the owner to his side to make the dog go to heel.
4. “Sit”: While facing the dog with either hand extended and palm faced upward, flip up the fingers with a quick wrist motion.
5. “Stay”: Can be done by having the arm extended downward, palm back, and held momentarily in front of the dog’s muzzle.
6. “Stand – Stay”: This is done by using the signal similar to “Stay.”

Voice Commands That Are Commonly Used In Basics Dog Obedience Training

The following is a list of 10 commonly used voice commands for dog obedience training:
1. “Come”: This command is used to bring the dog to the owner.
2. “Down”: This command is used to make the dog go to the ground lying face down.
3. “Heel”: This command is used to make the dog walk to the owner’s left side. It is also used to make the dog go to heel position from the come-fore position.
4. “No”: This is used to let the dog know that he has done something wrong.
5. “Sit”: This command is used to make the dog sit down.
6. “Stand”: This is used to bring the dog up on all four feet.
7. “Stay”: This command is used to keep the dog in either the sitting or the standing position.
8. “Fetch” or “Take it”: This command is used to make the dog take an object from either off the ground or the hand.
9. “Find it” or “Look for it”: This is used to make the dog seek for an object that he recognizes only by smell such as tracking or seeking a lost article.
10. “Hup”: This command is used to make the dog jump.
Http://basicsdogtraining.com

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Distract-Proofing In Your Dog Training

How To Implement “Distract-Proofing” In Your Dog Training

Distractions are stimuli that may entice a dog to break from command. “Proofing” is exposing your dog to distractions. The purpose is to teach the dog in a controlled setting that he must obey your commands despite whatever is happening nearby.

Taking every dog through every step isn't mandatory, but do so with animals whose working environments are highly stressful. Always condition at a dog's real-world level.
During initial exposures to distractions, begin with familiar basics. Using Stay as an example, start with brief, short-distance, on-leash Stays, not prolonged, Out-of-sight work.

As conditioning implies higher-stress situations than those to which your dog is accustomed, start with work in which he's confident. Complicated obedience can be added as you progress together.

No distraction should appear threatening. Your dog was born with a drive to protect himself as well as you, and to contrive a setting intended to counter that drive would be unsettling in the extreme. Lastly, recognize that during distraction training, you know what's coming, distraction-wise - as well as what's expected, but your dog doesn't.
http://basicsdogtraining.com

Training Your Dog Not to Jump Up

Training Your Dog Not To Jump Up On People

Puppies and dogs that jump up on you are only looking for attention, and it is your duty to give it to them. If, when you enter a room, your puppy dashes over to greet you, bend over to pet him. If you simply stand where you are, he will probably want more of a greeting from you and speaking to him is not enough. Remember that this display of affection is one of the ways your puppy will show that he loves you, and your affectionate response will assure him of your devotion.

If your puppy jumps on your friends or strangers when they come to visit you, another method must be employed. Have the puppy on a leash when a caller comes to the door and as the puppy starts to jump up, pull him back. Ask your friend to reach down and pet him.
Any time you pull your puppy back off balance, say "No, easy," to him.

It is best to have a collar on your puppy at this time. The collar should not be heavy and it should fit properly. If you wish to teach your dog later on to stand up against you, try this. Encourage him to stand against you by saying, "Up," and patting your chest. If the dog jumps and leans on you too heavily, gently tap him in the chest. Encourage him to try again, and when he leans against you lightly, praise him with your voice and pet him.
http://www.basicsdogtraining.com

Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Training Your Dog To Come -fore

Training Your Dog To “Come-fore” And “Go-to-heel”

The “come-fore” teaches your dog to sit and face you instead of sitting toward the left side. Keep your lead slack when teaching this exercise. Command “Front!” and then walk backward without moving the position of your hands on the lead. As the dog is coming in front of you, gradually gather the lead up and coax him in close. Hold the lead tight and command “Sit!” Praise him immediately and then command “Stay.” Step back to heel position without circling.

Once again, walk backward, keep your lead slack, then command “Front!” Don't drag your dog around on a tight lead. The lead is used to bring the dog in close and to make him sit in front. Step back to heel position. Command “Front!” Remember, the dog does the turning! All you do is walk backward two or three steps. When the dog turns around, gather the lead up and prompt him to sit. Praise at once.

Stand up straight and do not lean forward towards your dog. Hold your hands low and close to your body. Pull up on the lead to make the dog sit. Insist that your dog sits straight and squarely on both hips. If he sits at an angle, hold the leash tight and cuff him on whichever hip is out of line. Every obedience exercise includes the “come-fore” position. Therefore, it is important that the dog learns to do it correctly from the very start of his training so he will not get into the habit of doing a sloppy work.

Go-To-Heel: The “going-to-heel” exercise teaches the dog to go to your left side from the come-fore position. With your dog in the come-fore position, take hold of the lead the same as you do when heeling. Say “Heel!” walk to the right of your dog and keep going. The dog will swing around to your left side automatically. Tell your dog to sit, then praise him! Command

“Stay!” and step in front of him again. You should be as near your dog as possible. Again, command “Heel!” Walk past your dog and keep going.
The left hand guides the dog around into place at your left side. Make your dog sit! Tell him to stay and face him again. This time, to make your dog go to heel position, step backward with your left foot after you command “Heel!” and jerk the lead with a snap. This will bring the dog to all four feet. Now walk forward. Guide the dog around into place with your left hand. Make him sit immediately.

In doing the two exercises together, first start with the come-fore. Command “Front!” Walk backward with little motion of your body. Stand up straight. Keep your lead slack while the dog is making the turn. Gather up the lead as the dog comes in front, and hold the lead tight until he sits. Praise and pat him. Next, command “Heel!” Jerk the lead as you take a step backward with the left foot. Praise the dog at once as he swings around to heel position.

You may have to walk backward two or three steps at the beginning, but soon your dog will get the idea of going around to your left side by himself whenever he hears the command “Heel!” In practicing the going-to-heel exercise, give the command without moving the leash, then snap it when you step back with your left foot. Praise him immediately. Move your feet less each time so that the dog must do most of the work.
http://www.basicsdogtraining.com

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Does Your Puppy Nip And Bite

Does Your Puppy Nip & Bite?
Never allow your puppy to bite. This sort of thing will become a bad habit and be hard to break later on. If he bites your hands, give him a tap on his nose or under his chin. He will probably yelp, but he needs this lesson as early in life as you can give it to him.

A puppy that is allowed to nip and bite becomes very bold and aggressive as he grows older. Then when he gets to be over a year old, the harassed owner takes him to a professional trainer to be tamed down. Such dogs present a problem to both their owners and society in general. It takes a firm, experienced trainer to get them under control.

Many owners are so upset by their dog's uncontrolled behavior and aggressiveness that they decide to give him away. Unfortunately, what they do not realize is that the next person does not want a problem dog either. So take my advice and control your puppy while he is young and trainable.
http://www.BasicsDogTraining.com